Tag Archives: extension tubes

Macro Photography Techniques – Part 6 – The End

This is the 6th and final post in the macro photography techniques thread. Once I get some more results with my external flash macro shots I will add flash information to the series.

Macro Photography Techniques

  1. Close Focus Lens
  2. Teleconverters
  3. Extension Tubes
  4. Reversed Lenses
  5. Macro Lens
  6. Combining Techniques
  7. Close Up Filters

How Do You Combine?

When I say combining techniques, I’m referring to a few options, I will give each a small write up.

Teleconverters and Reversed Lenses

This is a method I only tried very recently, it gives huge amounts of magnification, very short working distances, but very cool shots are possible. This method involves mounting a teleconverter to your body, then mounting your reversed lens to your teleconverter. You effectively double the magnification you get from the reversed lens setup. The trade offs in this case are, losing 2 stops of light (assuming a 2x teleconverter), short working distance (distance from lens to subject), tiny depth of field and extreme magnification (this makes it hard to frame handheld, as tiny movements result in big shifts in composition). I was put onto this method by this guy. Check out his flickr for some truely amazing macro photography. He combines various techniques involving off camera flash, reversed lenses, teleconverters, bellows, extension tubes and focus stacking.

Extension Tubes or Bellows and Reversed Lenses

This is a similar method to the previous. If you mount your reversed lens onto a set of extension tubes (or bellows), you will increase your magnification. The same trade offs apply as with the previous method, loss of light, shorter working distances, smaller depth of field, and larger magnification. This is not a method I have personally tried, but I know it works as I have seen the results!

Combine The Above

So what about a set of tubes or bellows, then a teleconverter, then a reversed lens? Well imagine the magnification!!!!! But the working distance might become so short, that the subject would actually have to be INSIDE the lens. This is obviously not possible, so take care you aren’t going for too much magnification.

What About A Macro Lens?

You can very easily use a macro lens in the above methods, instead of using the reversed lens. Either method (or both) will allow greater than 1:1 magnification for those super close shots.

Would You Believe It?

As I am typing out this post, a baby gecko appeared on my window sill. Naturally (with macro on the mind) I grabbed the camera off the desk, grabbed the 28mm with reverse adapter already mounted from the drawer and took his photo. I will be sure to post the shot when I am able to process it fully. As a side note, I discovered a new little trick. It will work with K mount lenses, but I’m not sure if it will work with others. On the back of the lens is a small lever, this is what the body uses to actuate the aperture for wide open focusing, stop down shooting. If you are careful about how you hold the lens, you are able to actuate this lever with a finger, to give the same effect. The gecko was sitting on a white windowsill, with a very close working distance and onboard flash at full power (it always fires full power with non “A” lenses) I needed to stop all the way down to f22.0. At f22.0 the viewfinder is basically completely black so this little trick allowed me to get the shot I wanted.

Result

Here is a shot I took using a reverse mounted 28mm lens, a 2x teleconverter, and the onboard flash. This insect was less than 10mm long, so you see the huge magnification this combination allows.

 

ISO 100, probably around f16 aperture, 1/180 sec, onboard flash

The End

Thanks for reading the final post in this series (for now). If there are other methods you would like me to cover then let me know however you can, and I’ll get onto it! And don’t forget to keep an eye out for some shots of the baby gecko.

Macro Photography Techniques – Part 3

The 3rd installment of the series will cover the use of extension tubes. Again this is a method which requires an extra piece of equipment, but again it is something which can often be acquired quite cheaply.

Macro Photography Techniques

  1. Close Focus Lens
  2. Teleconverters
  3. Extension Tubes
  4. Reversed Lenses
  5. Macro Lens
  6. Combining Techniques
  7. Close Up Filters

Extension Tubes with a Fast Lens

First off, lets talk about what extension tubes are. Extension tubes are a simple device which mounts between the camera body and the lens. They contain no optical elements (where a teleconverter does). All they do is modify the register distance (distance from the lens to the sensor or film plane) which means the minimum focus distance of the lens becomes much less, as does the maximum focus distance for that matter. You can no longer focus to infinity with a lens mounted on extension tubes. Moving the lens further from the sensor or film plane also results in a loss of light. This is why I recommend using a fast lens when using extension tubes. The exact amount of light you will lose will depend on the thickness of the tubes (or how far from the sensor plane you move the lens).

Types of Tubes

There are 2 main types of extension tubes. There are those which operate the lens’ aperture mechanism, and those which do not. The most commonly found is the type that do not. These are often sold very cheaply on ebay, and come in 5 parts. A body mount, a lens mount, and 3 extensions of various sizes. These work just fine, however, if you want to stop the lens down (and you will, to get more depth of field) these can become quite hard to use. If you stop down the lens, you will notice the view finder darkens significantly, to the point where focusing, and even just composition of a shot becomes hard or even impossible.

I recommend spending a little extra on your extension tubes, and getting the “Auto” type. This means that the extension tubes allow the camera body to still operate the lens aperture through the tubes. This allows you to focus/compose the shot with the lens wide open (as happens with the lens mounted normally) and then the body closes the aperture just as the shot is taken. I have a set of these extension tubes, made by Vivitar for Pentax K mount.

Bellows?

Bellows, what are they? Bellows are basically a very large, length adjustable extension tube. They allow for heaps of magnification, but are heavy and awkward to use. I have not personally used a set of bellows, nor do I see myself using a set of bellows as I like to be mobile. However, keep them in mind.

Which Lens

As mentioned earlier, I recommend using a fast lens which extension tubes, as it allows you to focus and compose more easily after you have lost light from the tubes themselves. Something to keep in mind is, the shorter the focal length of the lens, the more magnification you get from an extension tube. For example, my extension tubes are sized as follows; 12mm, 20mm and 36mm. If I use the largest tube (36mm) with my 50mm lens, I get extra magnification, but if I use the same tube with my 28mm lens, I will get greater than 1:1 magnification! A good approximate rule is, to get 1:1 use the same length of extension tubes as the focal length of the lens. This guideline only applies to lenses which are not extremely close focusing already (like the CZ Flektogon 35mm f2.4 which already focuses to 1:2 magnification, 35mm of tubes will get greater than 1:1 on this lens).

I have successfully used my 50mm f1.7 lens, 50mm f2.0 lens and 28mm f2.8 lens with extension tubes.

Focusing

As before, focusing is best achieved by moving yourself and the camera and lens closer to, and further away from the subject as required, rather than using the focusing ring. See Part 1 for a full description.

Results

Here are some photos taken using my extension tubes. Dont forget to share yours in the comments

50mm f1.7 lens, all 3 extension tubes, ISO 100, 1/180 sec, f11.0, onboard flash. These are aphids, the big one is an ant.

 

50mm f1.7 lens, 36mm extension tube, ISO 100, 1/180 sec, f11.0, onboard flash

My Photography Gear

This is a full list of all my photography gear, I will try my best to keep it up to date as I buy and sell various things

Camera Body

  • Pentax K5-II
  • Pentax K200D
  • Canon Powershot A590 IS (running CHDK software)LEFT BEHIND
  • Canon Powershot ELPH 300HS (my wife’s camera)
  • Pentax Q

Pentax Lenses

  • Pentax SMC DA 18-55mm AL II f3.5-5.6 - SOLD
  • Pentax SMC A 50mm f1.7SOLD
  • Pentax SMC M 50mm f1.7 (has fungus)BINNED
  • Pentax SMC M 28mm f2.8SOLD
  • Pentax SMC FA 100-300mm f4.7-5.8GONE
  • Pentax F 35-70mm f3.5-4.5 - SOLD, BOUGHT NEW COPY
  • Pentax Q 01 Prime 8.5mm f1.9 (47mm equivalent)
  • Pentax Q 02 Zoom 5-15mm f2.8-4.5 (27.5-83.0mm equivalent) - SOLD
  • Pentax Q 03 Fisheye 3.2mm f5.6 (17.5mm equivalent)

Russian Lenses

  • Jupiter 9 85mm f2.0 M42
  • Tair 11-A 135mm f2.8 M42
  • Mir 1 37mm f2.8 M42SOLD
  • Helios 44-2 58mm f2.0 M42SOLD
  • Tair 3-Phs 300mm f4.5 M42

Others

  • Sigma 30mm f1.4
  • Sigma 10-20mm f4.0-5.6
  • Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 II APO DG EX MACRO (w HSM)
  • Sigma 150-500mm f5.0-6.3 APO DG OS (w HSM)
  • Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 - SOLD
  • Hanimar 135mm f2.8 M42 - SOLD
  • Soligor 135mm f3.5 M42 - SOLD
  • Vivitar 135mm f3.5 M42 - SOLD
  • Pentacon 30mm f3.5 M42- SOLD
  • Vivitar 35mm f3.5 M42 (loose rear elements, its my paper weight)- BINNED

Lens Accessories

  • Lens cleaning brush
  • Lens Cleaning tissues
  • Lens cleaning cloths (lots of these) – 3 packs are available from DealExtreme
  • Giottos Rocket Blower Medium
  • 67mm -> 77mm filter step up ring (allows 77mm filter on a 67mm threaded lens)
  • Kenko SHQ 1.5x Teleconverter, works with SDM/HSM lenses
  • Quantaray 2x AF Teleconverter
  • Vivitar Auto Teleconverter 2x-22 (allows wide open focusing but has no contacts and no autofocus)SOLD
  • Vivitar Auto Extension Tubes AT-22 (allows wide open focusing but has no contacts and no autofocus)- LEFT BEHIND
  • 49mm Hoya 3 position rubber hood- BINNED
  • 58mm black metal hood – bought from ebay (for FA 100-300)- LEFT BEHIND

Lens Filters

  • 52mm Kenko MC CPL
  • 52mm Hoya R72 Infrared
  • 52mm ND400 as mentioned here
  • 62mm Kenko MC UV
  • 67mm Kenko PRO1 Digital Protector
  • 67mm Kenko PRO1 Digital CPL
  • 67mm Hoya ND400 (9 s top ND filter)
  • 77mm IR720
  • 77mm Kenko MC CPL
  • 49mm Cokin CPL- LEFT BEHIND
  • 49mm UV x3 (came with various lenses)- LEFT BEHIND
  • 49mm Blue- LEFT BEHIND
  • 49mm Hoya Star Six- LEFT BEHIND
  • 49mm Hoya Centre Spot (blurs out the edges, leaving only the centre of the image clear)- LEFT BEHIND
  • 52mm Hoya NDX400 (9 stop ND filter)SOLD
  • 52mm IR720 as mentioned here- BINNED
  • 62mm Kenko MC CPLSOLD

Cokin P Filters and Accessories

  • Chinese copy 3 slot Cokin P holder
  • Chinese copy 1 slot Cokin P holder (wide angle)
  • 67mm adapter
  • 77mm adapter
  • Graduated ND8 Filter
  • ND 3.0 (10 stop) Filter

Flashes and Accessories

  • Sunpak Auto 200 flash (part of Dad’s gear, unsafe for DSLR hot shoe mounting)- LEFT BEHIND
  • Optical Trigger- LEFT BEHIND
  • Hand made diffuser using cardboard, alfoil and plain white paper- LEFT BEHIND

Other Accessories

  • Cable Release Remote – bought from DealExtreme
  • IR Push Button Remote – bought from DealExtreme
  • 3 axis hotshoe mounted bubble level – bought from DealExtreme
  • Pentax D-BG3 battery grip for K200D
Tripod
  • Slik 500 Pro DX w Head- SOLD
  • Manfrotto ART-190 aluminium tripod with Benro KB-2 Ballhead